Alberta's Rockies Fishing Guide: Fishing Guide in Alberta's Rockies, Alberta


Fishing in the Rockies

Banff National Park and the surrounding area provides some very good angling in some of the most pristine fishing country in the world. Banff National Park covers 6,641 square kilometers and has four major rivers, an uncounted number of tributary streams, and 486 lakes. This diversity of waters provides a challenge for any style of angler. For hikers, a large number of trails lead to some fine fishing. Horseback parties can explore the really remote areas of the park and also benefit from angling opportunities. The upper Cascade River and Mystic and Sawback Lakes can provide a very enjoyable angling experience.

The pleasures of angling in the district arise largely from the aesthetics of the area. Surrounded by mountain peaks reaching 9,000 feet, snow covered most of the year, angling takes on a new meaning. It is more than just catching fish - it is a special time to escape the pressures of everyday life, experience a sense of adventure, and an opportunity to appreciate the splendours of nature in a national park. Wildlife abounds - beaver tails slapping water, elk bugelling, ducks, geese, and mergansers honking and quacking, shore birds tittering, hawks and eagles screeching, a loon's baleful calling - these and more are but some of the pleasures awaiting the attentive angler. What better way to pass the day?

In the early years of the park - 1890 to 1910- fishing became more and more important to the tourism industry. An early outfitter, Walter Wilcox, had discovered Paradise and Prospectors valleys, Valley of the Ten Peaks, Vermilion Pass and Boom Lake, and the upper Bow Valley including Hector and Bow Lakes. He wrote:

"fishing was remarkably fine. It may be broadly stated that every clear stream abounds in trout if the waters are not swift. The Bow is an ideal river for mountain trout, as it descends through its broad and flat valley."

There are numerous historical records of large catches of mammoth fish. A couple of photos show thirty or more fish, averaging what appears to be 16 or so inches, laid out on the ground or suspended from branches - the proud anglers smugly in the background. Thankfully those days are long gone, but such exploits have largely depleted the fish stocks of many a fine fishery.


Bear and Cubs

A couple of words of caution: all animals in the park are wild - that means that they can be unpredictable and must be treated with respect. Bear encounters are not frequent, but do occur. Many visitors go out looking for a bear encounter- but they are to be avoided. Read and heed the bulletin given out upon entry to the park "You Are In Bear Country." For an example of the sort of thing that can occur, there follows the tale of a family who had a close encounter of the bear kind.

Mom, Dad and two young daughters were spin fishing along the Bow just a short distance up the Trans-Canada Highway from Banff. The elder daughter (about 12 years old) was about to walk the short distance into the bush to retrieve a lure that was caught on a branch when she heard some rustling. At the same instant her mother spotted the cause of the commotion. It was a bear - about ten feet from her daughter. Luckily, common sense prevailed and the daughter dropped the rod and calmly, without looking directly at the intruder, walked away. The family was able to recall the tale.

Bears, as with all wild animals, can be very dangerous. Normally they are more afraid of you than you are of them, and will avoid human contact. Almost all encounters are accidental, and the animal is surprised. They do not take surprises well. When walking along streams, where that peaceful babbling and tumbling of water masks the sounds of your approach, and areas of poor visibility, make extra noise. Whistle, clap, sing to yourself, talk loudly. This will warn the bears of your approach and give them time to move away.

Sport fishing in the mountain parks is a unique opportunity to be cherished for its overall experience. The mountain parks provide a great opportunity for an angling experience based on the quality of the experience not the quantity of the fish. The bull trout and the cutthroat are the native species of the upper Bow River drainage basin.

FISH SPECIES:

Bull Trout


A Trout

The bull trout was known as the dolly varden until only a couple of years ago when close scientific scrutiny showed that the bull trout is actually a separate species.

The bull trout had, at one time, the most extensive native range in Alberta among all trout and char. They were once common in all of the drainages flowing from the Eastern Slopes of the Rocky Mountains. They are now internationally recognized as 'vulnerable' throughout their native range. Bull trout were officially recognized as the official fish of the Province of Alberta, which implemented a special recovery program.

Bull trout are known to thrive in cold mountain streams and lakes, preferring water no warmer than 18 degrees Celsius.The bull trout is a voracious eater and takes full advantage of any and all food items available to them. They feed primarily in the mid-water levels and near the bottom. Probably their favourite food is the mountain whitefish, along with insects and other fish species including suckers, sculpin, minnows, burbot and trout. They have been known to dine on wayward mice that have fallen into the water.

Their appetite has been a significant factor in their dwindling numbers for two reasons: First of all they are fairly easy to catch as they eat almost anything. The second is a bit more intricate and is tied to people's attitudes toward the species.

In the early 1900's stocking programs saw the introduction of exotic species such as rainbow, brown and brook trout. The bull trout was often seen as an unwanted competition and predator on these introduced fish and were dealt with accordingly. In some cases there was a determined effort to remove them. The prevailing attitude and preference by anglers to catch the stocked species also lead to over harvesting.

The last 25 or so years have seen a serious decline in the numbers and distribution of bull trout, largely due to over fishing. Other factors in the species decline include habitat loss and angler attitudes. They were seen as a 'trash' fish that competed with the venerated rainbow and brown trout- species introduced for sport fishing. This attitude led to concerted efforts to catch and keep as many bull trout as possible. Archive photos (which can be viewed at the Whyte Museum in Banff) from early days show huge catches of large fish. In an article entitled "A Fisherwoman in the Rockies" Julia Henshaw wrote,

"In an hour, thirteen trout varying from one/half to two pounds would be in my creel." The attitude that the population was inexhaustible was widely held.

Many anglers are unaware of the vulnerable state of the bull trout and have difficulty positively identifying it. Bull trout are long and slender with comparatively large head and jaws. The tail fin is only slightly forked. The body tends to be pale in appearance, with a white belly, and olive-green darkening to blue-grey up the sides and back. There are pale round spots in shades of yellow, orange, pink, or red along the sides and back. Like most other char, there are no black spots or worm-like patterns on the dorsal (back) fin. Hence the slogan "NO BLACK - PUT IT BACK" Within the Park, bull trout, along with cutthroat trout are subject to catch-and-release regulations.

Cutthroat Trout


A Trout

Cutthroat trout were first reported by a writer named Vick in 1913. He noted that they were widespread in the park. At that time they were reported in Boom, Harrison, Consolation, Moraine, Mystic, Sawback, Hector, Bow, Margaret, and Spray Lakes as well as Red Earth Creek), and in Lower Kananaskis Lake. They are now almost totally absent from the entire Kananaskis system.

There are at least two subspecies of the cutthroat trout present in the parks - the native west-slope, and the exotic (introduced) yellowstone. All have a red to orange slash that runs in the folds along the inner edge of the lower jaw bone. In many waters the native west-slope cutthroat have hybridized with the introduced rainbow. Fish with very faint slashes are likely hybrids.

Throughout their range, cutthroat may attain a length of 32 cm. Cutts are not fussy eaters, feeding predominantly on insects, crustaceans, and fish; large individuals may take small mammals such as field mice. They can be successfully caught on both wet and dry flies as well as spoons and spinners.
Cutthroat in all waters of the park are subject to catch and release regulations.

Rainbow Trout
Rainbows, considered by many to be the best of the trout, as far as angling is concerned, were introduced in the 1930s. Where they exist in the parks they are stunted - never reaching their potential size of 114 cm. and 120 kg. The average rainbow now seen in the park is in the 20 to 35 cm size range.

Brown Trout
Typically, the brown trout has a square tail, golden- brown to green-brown sides and large dark spots on the sides and back. Spots have pale or white halos. Brown trout are exotics introduced during the heyday of Banff National Park's stocking program. There are very few above the Bow Falls, but they are numerous below the falls. Many experienced anglers have difficulty identifying the local browns when they first fish in the Rockies. Most browns in the Bow are much more silvery than one would expect - but the spots are typical of browns.

Browns are notorious for their wariness, and the challenge of testing angling skills against them makes them much sought after. Browns are largely nocturnal feeders, and are best angled in late evening or early morning. Brilliant sunny days may be great days for fishing, but not great days for catching, particularly browns.

I have seen and caught a few very large browns within the park. My most memorable was a huge one that I saw rise to a fly one evening while on a stroll without a rod. I determined that I would return the following evening. Luck was with me, and on the fourth cast of a large brown caddis dry fly the behemoth rose and took the fly. A fifteen minute battle ensued, which saw me sprint about 55 metres downstream following, and ended with the successful landing and release of a fat, healthy 65 cm brown. What an evening!.

Brook Trout
The brook trout is on of the three char, along with lake trout and the native bull trout. "Brookies" have many worm-like markings on the back, and the pectoral, pelvic and anal fins have a white leading edge followed by black. They are particularly attractive in the spawning season when the lower body becomes a bright orange-red.

Brook trout were the most utilized in the stocking programs in Banff, Jasper and Waterton National Parks since their first introduction in 1908. Until fishery management policies changed in the mid-1970s to favour native species, they were introduced to at least 150 lakes.

Lake Trout
"Lakers" are found primarily in Lake Minnewanka, although a few been reported in the Bow River. They grow to 100 cm. in length and to 20 kg. Some other high mountain lakes may contain stunted lake trout, rarely exceeding 30 cm. They prefer colder water, so are most often found in large deep lakes at depths of 15 to 28 metres. In the early part of the season they can be caught in the shallows as they cruise the warmer water that supports more food organisms early in the season.

The Mountain Parks are truly a cold water fishery, just stick a hand in any of the lakes or streams for proof. Most water bodies in the parks have the characteristic cloudy green colouring - a result of suspended calcium carbonate from the slow erosion of the towering mountain peaks.

Rocky Mountain Whitefish
This is the most abundant fish in the Bow and other area rivers. They are a round-nosed and round-bodied silvery fish with a large adipose fin. The mouth is small, round, and very soft, and extends downward from the upper jaw. Some locals call them suckers in derision, others, also incorrectly, refer to them as Grayling - they are actually an excellent game fish. They do not jump and put on a show like rainbows, but put up a good fight. Small flies and lures are required due to their small mouth.

I recall a very humorous incident a few years ago during the annual stonefly hatch watching a particularly acrobatic whitefish try to capture a drifting stonefly by repeatedly flopping onto it in an attempt to drown it before it flew off. I have had the same experience casting a large, bushy 'sofa pillow'. Because of the hook size I didn't catch any, but had a hoot watching them try to devour a fly about 4 times the size of their mouth..

STILL WATER FISHING:
High alpine lakes are typically sites of low nutrient production, and fish are often stunted. The pace of life, and hence growth rate in cold water is slow. Most of the lakes contain only cutthroat trout - some of which are truly of native lineage, some are descendants of stocked fish.


Mountain Lake

Angling opportunities in the park are numerous, but many require a bit of effort to reach. Lake Minnewanka, the largest lake in the Park, has good potential early in the season. Shore angling can be successful along the causeway, and along the shores of the Cascade River Inlet Bay just a short walk along the north shore through the picnic area. Boat anglers usually are more successful, provided they are using the right lures and at the correct depth. A 'fish finder' can be invaluable. Guides are available, as are boat rentals.

Johnson Lake, which is accessible by car, is a small shallow lake. There is very little area for shore fly fishing, but a spin fisher can have a good time. Float tubes and canoes are the best bet, as they get a fly fisher out onto the water. Many evenings see the surface come almost to a full rolling boil as hundreds of fish rise to assorted caddis and mayflies. It can be frustrating to fish, as one's attention is constantly averted from one's just cast fly to a noisy splash a few feet away.

Two Jack Lake, situated between Minnewanka and Johnson is another option. It is significantly larger than Johnson and is best fished from a canoe or float tube (which are available for rent in Banff).

Many lakes provide a wonderful day of activity. A hike of a half hour and up to three hours will get you to one of the lakes that can provide a pleasurable few hours of angling for native cutthroat trout. Remember that they are subject to catch and release regulations. Taylor, Boom, Shadow, and Smith Lakes are just a few that can be reached fairly easily. The scenery at and on the way to all of these is spectacular and worth the trip regardless of the fishing.

RIVER FISHING:
The Bow River has some excellent stretches, and is easily accessible from the Trans-Canada Highway. Every stretch of the river contains fish. It is the skill in determining exactly where the fish are lying, and what fly or lure will work best, then delivering it successfully that makes a productive angler. Any place where a car can be pulled completely off the road (the right hand paved lane is a bicycle lane and should not be blocked for the safety of cyclists) can be the starting point of a few very enjoyable hours.


Fishing

There is some pretty good fishing along the Bow River within the town boundaries, notably on the west bank opposite Central Park, and along the Banff Springs Golf course road. Access between Banff and Castle Junction is now somewhat restricted with the building of the wildlife fencing a couple years ago when the Trans Canada Highway was twinned. From Castle Junction to Lake Louise has much easier and more abundant access points, but the fishing tends to be better below the falls toward Canmore. A hike as short as ten minutes will get an angler to some excellent water and away from the hustle and bustle. This is a missed opportunity because it is regularly reported that no one is seen fishing along some of the most beautiful looking water.

Most of the smaller tributaries of the Bow contain fish, but most are small, and suitable holding pockets are few, and often far between. By all means go for a hike, carry a rod, and wet a line, but don't count on catching much, other than a pleasant outing. Always check with the Information Centre before venturing out. They have the latest on area closures, trail conditions, bear sightings, and other useful advice.

Access Points:
1. Golf Course Road: The loop road through the Banff Spring Golf Course gives access to some fine water, and surprising peace and tranquility for being so close to town. There are a few spots farther around the road, where it widens out enough to park off the pavement and walk the few yards to the Bow.

2. Continue around the loop road to the Rundle Riverside trail head. This trail follows the river most of the way to Canmore, before veering uphill to the Canmore Nordic Centre - home of the 1988 Winter Olympic Nordic events. For those who are willing to walk at least 30 minutes there is some great fishing.

3. The pool where the Spray River joins the Bow, just below Bow Falls is alright, but very busy - be prepared to be a part of someone's photo.

4. Central Park: It is surprising to many visitors that there is an opportunity to catch fish in downtown Banff. Fish can regularly be seen rising in the Bow along Central Park.

5. Cave & Basin / Sundance Canyon: Park at the Cave & Basin parking lot and head down the paved trail toward Sundance Canyon. This is a slow moving portion of the Bow and looks quite uninteresting, but does have fish - give it a try - but don't hook the hikers and bikers who are only a few feet behind you.

6. Truck pull-off (just west of the Trans-Canada bridge over the Bow). This does not have an 'official' name, but is an easy place to park and the Bow is close. Go through the hanging chain wildlife gate at the west end of the parking area and try either up or down- stream.

7. Red Earth Creek: There is a gate in the wildlife fence on the west side of the creek that will give access to some nice water.

8. Castle Junction: Park at the lot on the north side of the river, accessed from Hwy.93 north from the Trans-Canada Hwy. There are a few recent stories about some large fish being caught in this part of the river.

9. Above Castle Junction: There are lots of random spots where the highway and river or close by and room to park your vehicle off the pavement - and some truly fine looking water.

10. Johnson Lake: Drive east on Banff Ave. travel under the overpass and head toward Lake Minnewanka. Just past the Cadet Camp, turn right and follow the signs. There is a parking lot and full services (pit toilets, water, picnic tables) at the west end of the lake. This is one of the more popular spots for locals - offering a biking and hiking trail, a sand beach, swimming, and angling. Shore fishing is good all around the lake, but there is limited suitable shore angling for fly fishermen. A canoe or float tube is by far the best way to fish Johnson Lake for its rainbow and brook trout.

11. Two Jack Lake: This is a widening of the supply channel for Trans Alta Utilities Cascade power plant. A canoe or a float tube is a great help. Shore angling is possible as well.

12. Lake Minnewanka: This is the biggest lake in the park. Due to its depth and size it can be a difficult lake to fish, but is worth the effort as some truly large lake trout are caught each year. Shore angling can be done along the causeway at the west end of the lake or by making the short hike to the Cascade River inlet bay - about five minutes along the north shore. Walk through the day use picnic area. It is possible to fish from either the east or west shore of the bay. Or hike the north shore trail - it goes all the way to the end of the lake and beyond. Boats are available for rent, and guided excursions are offered.

13. Smith Lake: An exceptionally pretty lake - just far enough from the highway so the traffic noise is absent. Access is gained by driving a very short distance south on Hwy. 93 toward Radium, to the second available left - the first put you on the eastbound lanes of the Trans-Canada highway. Cross the northbound lane of Highway 93, pass through a gate and drive a few hundred yards to the parking lot. This trailhead serves both Smith Lake and the Twin Lakes trail. Walk a short distance down the trail to a small, nondescript trail marker pointing left - this is the Smith Lake trail. Head up the trail for about 45 minutes - it is an easy to moderate hike. Smith Lake is first seen from atop the cliff above the north end. There is little shoreline suitable for fly fishing. Pack in a float tube and waders for a pleasant day.

14. Twin Lakes: See #13 above for trail information. The lakes are eight km from the parking lot.

15. Rockbound Lake: Park at the warden's cabin just east of Castle Junction on the Bow Valley Parkway and hike the eight and a half km. to Rockbound. The lake has lots of smaller fish.

16. Boom Lake: Access from the trailhead parking lot seven km south of Castle Junction on Hwy. 93. The trail is not particularly difficult, but a bit tedious, and, at five km, should be treated as a full day outing.

17. Taylor Lake: Access from the trail head parking lot eight km. west of the Castle Junction on the Trans-Canada Hwy. The lake is just over six km. down the trail.

Fishing in the Canmore area:
The Bow River can be accessed from a number of places along both the Trans-Canada Hwy. and the 1A east of Canmore. There are also access points along the eastbound lane of the Trans-Canada near Harvie Heights, in the Town of Canmore itself, and the Trans Canada Highway bridge a few kilometers east of Canmore.

These are but a few of the many angling opportunities in the Park. There are many more - a glance through one of the trail guides will give you a few clues to others.

TACKLE:
Spin fishermen can be quite successful using small spoons and spinners. Bait is not allowed in the park. Fly fishers can check at a local Banff fishing supply store for the current hatches and recommended flies.

LICENSES AND REGULATIONS:
Fishing licenses are very inexpensive at $6 for seven days or $13 for a year. Don't go out without one, the penalties are severe and include a mandatory court appearance. Licenses are available at all of the shops in the area selling fishing equipment, at the Warden's offices, and at the Friends of Banff National Park in the Information Centre.

Rental equipment (spin and fly rods, waders, float tubes), flies, lures, licenses, maps, advice, and quality spin and fly equipment and accessories are available at Performance Sports, 208 Bear Street. Guided fishing, and fly casting lessons can also be arranged.

WHAT TO USE:
Spin fishermen:

For the Bow use smaller sizes of just about anything.
Favourites are:
'Red & White'
'5 of Diamonds'
'Black Fury'
Panther Martins (Gold or Silver).
For Johnson Lake use the same.

For Two Jack Lake use the next larger size.

For Lake Minnewanka use the larger sizes.

Fly fishermen:

Nymphs:
Stone fly nymphs
gold ribbed hares ear
prince nymphs

Streamers/Rivers:
Doc Spratley (black or green)
'Black nosed dace'
Crystal bugger (black or green)
woolly buggers
muddler minnows are good bets for river.

Streamers Lake:
Doc Spratley
Werner Shrimp
Carey Special
soft hackle flies
smaller muddlers
buggers
leeches etc.

Dry flies:
Whatever is hatching.

Hatches may be:

Early Season:
Blue wing olives (14-16-18) best on colder cloudy drizzly days
Pale morning (evening) duns
Green Drake / Brown Mayfly
Mosquito
Adams
Black gnat

Mid Season:
Caddis

Fly Fishing
Green drakes
Pale morning dun
Hoppers

Late Season:
Caddis
blue wing olives

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